Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.
Submitted by : Ian Waterhouse
Area : Lundy
Crag : North Light, Lefthand Buttress
Date of ascent : 03/08/2006
Route Name : It's the Truth
Length/grade/stars : 60ft , VS 4c, *
Climbers : Ian and Caroline Waterhouse
Start location: Scramble down as described in guide
Pitch descriptions:
Climb cracks a couple of metres left from the right arete of the butress (taken by White
Lie).
Additional info: Good wires. |
Submitted by : Joe Lenham
Area : Lundy
Crag : Northern end of the Earthquake, some way back onto the main plateau,
opposite the Needle.
Date of ascent : August 2004.
Route Name : Wilton's Way and Uphill Gardener
Length/grade/stars : 15 m, VS 4b and VD (0 & 0)
Climbers : WW: Joe Lenham, Peter Taylor UG: Joe Lenham, Lou BurdettStart
location:
*** This is from memory - I wrote up the routes previously for Simon
Cardy but the routes weren't included in the 2005 update. ***
Approach on the inland side of the Earthquake area until you can turn
left (west) and walk along the top of the cliffs toward the point
that looks down onto The Needle. Just before you reach this point
is a square-cut elongate trench within the granite on your left, about
8 m long and apparently bottomless. This is the route location.
Abseil into the northern end of the trench until you reach a (possibly
false) floor about 15 m down. Wilton's Way takes the northern end
of the trench, with some bridging and laybacking. Good pro towards
the top, in the right-hand corner crack.
Uphill Gardener takes the middle of the off-vertical western wall of
the trench, passing some dubious looking chocks half way up.
Pitch descriptions:
I hope that this helps to locate the climbs, but it is difficult 2 years after the first ascent
to remember the exact details. I do have digital video of the first ascent though - featuring
a CC member, Peter Taylor. Email me for more info or even video.
Additional info:
No sign of any previous ascents, which is no real suprise. Both routes could be pleasant if clean,
but there are better routes around to do instead! Good for a horrible windy wet day, as totally
sheltered.
Climbed and cleaned on sight, free. |
Submitted by : Pete Johnson
Area : Lundy
Crag : Threequarter Buttress
Date of ascent : 13 August 2007
Route Name : Mr Knobbly Knees
Length/grade/stars : 75ft Severe
Climber : Pete Johnson
Start location:
Obvious square cut Chimney between Ribsnorter and
Hotspot
Pitch descriptions:
75ft climb chimney to its top to join Ribsnorter
Additional info:
Solo |
Submitted by : Pete Johnson
Area : Lundy
Crag : Slipper Rock, East Coast
Date of ascent : August 2007
Route Name : The Slipper
Length/grade/stars : 50ft Severe
Climbers : Pete Johnson, Steve Findlay both soloed
Start location:
On south side of Gannet Bay is an unusual formation
called Slipper Rock. Route climbs west face
Pitch descriptions:
Climb obvious groove then make awkward step up to
reach the sloping snout then on up to the precarious
balanced 'slipper'. If brave you can traverse to end
of the snout and hang from the jug to pose for a
spectacular photo. A giggle.
Can be protected with largish friends but much
better to solo
Additional info:
Solo |
Submitted by : Pete Johnson
Area : Lundy
Crag : Grand Falls Zawn
Date of ascent : Aug 2007
Route Name : Ramp it Up
Length/grade/stars : 120ft E1 5b; 2-star
Climbers : Sreve Findlay, Pete Johnson
Start location:
Description in log book in Marisco Tavern.
Can abseil in directly to start from boulders on
slope above finish of Separate Reality. Exciting,
60m abseil rope required
Pitch descriptions:
120ft. Start part way up pitch 2 of Road to Moscow
belaying on the rib to R of peg in basalt Dyke. Step
L past peg then up to obvious L traverse and
handrail, above the slab, finishing up steep groove
just to R of Separate Reality.
Additional info:
On sight |
Submitted by : Pete Johnson
Area : Lundy
Crag : Storm Zawn
Date of ascent : 16/8/2007
Route Name : Storm Wall
Length/grade/stars : E3. 3 star. 170ft
Climbers : Paul Donnithorne, Emma Alsford
Start location:
As for Storm Zawn
Storm Wall is the obvious impressive wall at the
back of the zawn to the left of deep cave left of
Herbert Bronski's Back. A good view can be had from
top of 'Quiet before the storm'(see supplement).
Pitch descriptions:
Detailed description in Climber's Log in Marisco
Tavern.
Pitch 1 75ft. Start just R of obvious groove at L of
wall. Up rib/face to flake. Step up L to crack. Up
this then traverse R below overlap to fang at end (Camalot
6 welcome here). Hard move up to peg belay (can be
backed up with thin sling on flake to R, and with
various wires).
Pitch 2 95ft. Straight up for 10ft to peg below
obvious thin crack. Traverse R to arete, ledge. Up
for a few feet then traverse below top roofs to
their L end. (Obvious horizontal slot-friend 3.5).
Awkward move up to finishing groove.
The obvious direct version of top pitch done
on-sight by Mattie Rawlinson and Pete Johnson at E4
6a. (17/8/2007) If done this way still gives a 3
star route.
Additional info:
Pegs placed on abseil |
