The Climbers' Club

Routes are listed in chronological order of submission.

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including Area, Crag and Route Name.

Submitted by : Joe Squire Area : Pembroke Crag/Section : Bosheston Head South Face Route Name : Indecision Length, grade, stars : 100ft Hvs 5a Approach/Descent: Approach as for Warm Waves ledge. Pitch descriptions: 100ft HVS 5A. Nice Exposed Climbing above the cave right of Warm Waves.Follow Warm Waves rib until level with the cave.Move up to an obvious juggy traverse line left above the cave follow this for a few feet until below a corner (exposed). Pull over the bulge into the corner follow this till a travers left across a spike slab under a small overhang can be made to the central corner and climb this in a fine position to the top. Climbers names : Joe Squire & Alan Richardson Date of ascent : 01/09/1996 Additional info: There is a route in the 1998 Supplement called The Book this is not the same route as it does not traverse all the way to the corner.

Submitted by : Victoria Hayes Area : Pembroke - North Crag/Section : Square Bay - Seaward Wall Route Name : Barney Likes to Climb Length, grade, stars : 30 feet, Vs 4c, 0 Stars Approach/Descent: As for \"one\", \"two\" and \"three\", abseil down right side of block. Start of route is at base of central crack on the left(facing in) of the block (opposite side of the block to 1,2 and 3). Pitch descriptions: 1 pitch, 3 feet Start 10 feet left of block. Climb central crack of slab to break at half height. Traverse right to righthand crack (immediately left of block). Finish up this. Climbers names : Matt Smith, Vicky Hayes Date of ascent : 16/4/2006 Additional info: On sight

Submitted by : Mark Dancey Area : Pembroke Crag : Flimston Stack, Flimston Bay Date of ascent : 28/08/06 Route Name : 1. Good Vibrations 2. California Girls Length/grade/stars : 50ft, 1. HS 4b, 2. s 4a, no stars Climbers : M.Dancey, A Maclean Start location: as for flimston stack already in guide. In situ sling for abseil descent Pitch descriptions: 1. Good Vibrations Follow the crack on the east side over the bulge to the top. 2. California Girls Follow the crack on the west side over the first bulge, then step righ to avoid the loose section above, climbing the arete to the top. Additional info: in situ sling lower off, no known repeats

Submitted by : Andy Lole Area : Pembroke Crag : Saddle Head, Main Cliff Date of ascent : 30/04/2006 Route Name : Done 'Em All Length/grade/stars : E1 5b 17m * Climbers : Andy Lole, Chris Polden Start location: For all the routes abseil from near the '62' metal plate mentioned in the CC supplement. Abseil past the mid height ledge mentioned in the supplement all the way to the large ledge at the bottom covered at high tide. The routes actually start from a ledge part way up the wall which is easily scrambled to, but also easily stopped at on the abseil descent! Pitch descriptions: 1 Pitch E1 5b 17m Climb from the left hand end of the ledge at its highest point. Follow easy holds up the slab to a right facing corner. Climb over an overlap and move right following the corner. Pull out right onto the face and continue up to the large ledge at half height on the cliff and belay. An excellent pitch with adequate gear. Additional info: Onsight

Submitted by : Andy Lole Area : Pembroke Crag : Saddle Head, Main Cliff Date of ascent : 30/04/2006 Route Name : Beer, Lime and Ibuprofen Length/grade/stars : E2 5c 18m * Climbers : Andy Lole, Chris Polden Start location: For all the routes abseil from near the '62' metal plate mentioned in the CC supplement. Abseil past the mid height ledge mentioned in the supplement all the way to the large ledge at the bottom covered at high tide. The routes actually start from a ledge part way up the wall which is easily scrambled to, but also easily stopped at on the abseil descent! Pitch descriptions: 1 Pitch E2 5c 18m Climb the rib in the centre of the face and follow the thin left trending crack above. Continue on good holds with poor, spaced gear through the bulge above up to the large ledge and belay. Another excellent runout pitch. Additional info: Onsight. Could be the first pitch of Akitivator88 but felt harder than E1 5b.

Submitted by : Andy Lole Area : Pembroke Crag : Saddle Head, Main Cliff Date of ascent : 30/04/2006 Route Name : Clint Eastwood Length/grade/stars : E1 5b 18m * Climbers : Chris Polden, Andy Lole Start location: For all the routes abseil from near the '62' metal plate mentioned in the CC supplement. Abseil past the mid height ledge mentioned in the supplement all the way to the large ledge at the bottom covered at high tide. The routes actually start from a ledge part way up the wall which is easily scrambled to, but also easily stopped at on the abseil descent! Pitch descriptions: E1 5b 18m Climb 'Beer, Lime and Ibuprofen' to the top of the rib. Traverse out right onto the bulge on BIG holds. Climb up and right on more big holds to the right side of the large ledge and belay. The bulge is runout on BIG, BIG holds and the crux is on 'Beer, Lime and Ibuprofen'. Additional info: Onsight. Could be the first pitch of Akitivator88 but felt harder than E1 5b.

Submitted by : Steve Newman Area : Pembroke part one [South Pembroke] Crag : Crystal slabs area  [sea level buttress to the right of crystal block] Date of ascent : 09/04/07 Route Name : Freddies laces Length/grade/stars   : 50 feet HVS 5a one star Climbers : Steve Newman,Jac Newman Start location: Approach as for crystal block, the route is on the next buttress to the left [looking landward] Pitch descriptions: 50 feet hvs 5a start at the bottom of the buttress climb direct to the overhang and climb the left trending crack to the top Additional info: none

Submitted by : Alison Athroll Area : Pembroke Crag : Carreg-y-Barcud Date of ascent : 08/04/2007 Route Name : Be Calm Length/grade/stars : 70 ft, E1 5b Climbers : Alison Athroll, Ian Athroll Start location: Start as for A Head in the Clouds.  Pitch descriptions: Climb up and traverse left to the square pocket of The Great Valerio.  Continue along this until a thin rising diagonal (finger) crack line appears above.  Climb up to this and follow to the crack of Be Brave.  Finish as for Be Brave. This is a good option if you want to savour some of the delights of The Great Valerio but climbers on Metamorphosis prevent the complete outing. Additional info: On-sight.  Repeated by other unknown party who were present at the crag at the time.

Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke (Range West) Crag : Cabin Door Date of ascent : 15/8/04 Route Name : Little Harden Length/grade/stars : 40ft, S Climbers : F Kenden, D Wright Start location: Right of Passing the Port and the arch to its right. Pitch descriptions: 1. 40ft 4a Up the wall, passing the overhang at three-quarters height by moving to the left arete, thence directly to the top. Additional info: None

Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke (Range West) Crag : Pen-y-Holt Bay Date of ascent :  13/11/04 Route Name : Here We Go Looby Loo Length/grade/stars : 100ft, HS Climbers : F Kenden, D Wright Start location: Starting at the seawards end of the west face, finds the easiest way up the face. Pitch descriptions: 1. 100ft 4a Move up then diagonally leftwards to the landward side of the face. After ascending the arete for a few moves, traverse horizontally rightwards beneath the coffin-shaped roof to regain the seawards arete and so the summit. Additional info: None

Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke (Range West) Crag : Greenham Common: East face Date of ascent :  26/8/96 Route Name : Atishoo, Atishoo Length/grade/stars : 70ft, E2 Climbers : D Wright, M Shelley Start location: Between Wilson’s Wobbler and Exterminate, Exterminate Pitch descriptions: 1. 70ft 5a From the foot of the rock shield gain the obvious crack on the left-hand side of the shield and continue up the looser headwall. Microwires useful. ‘The gap it fills was probably preferable to the end-result’. Additional info: None

Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke (Range West) Crag : Flimston Date of ascent : 10/10/99 Route Name : Chicane - In the Interim Guide Page 111 (see download) Length/grade/stars : 200ft, E1, * Climbers : D Wright, F Kenden Start location: Between It’s a Fair Cop and Speed Trap Pitch descriptions: Finds the easiest route up this section of cliff in three contrasting pitches. Committing (on an incoming tide) and loose at the top. 1. 80ft 5a As It’s a Fair Cop, taking stance as soon as roof is passed. 2. 60ft 5a Traverse right across the slab, step right, gain the obvious layback crack above on the left, then more easily right, scrunching to gain a ledge with good Friend anchors. 3. 60ft 5a The groove above leads to hanging blocks, trending slightly rightwards to more loose blocks, but good anchors at the top. Additional info: None

Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke (Range West) Crag : Perimeter Bays Date of ascent : 4/10/97 Route Name : The Men in Black - In the Interim Guide Page 116 (see download) Length/grade/stars : 80ft, MXS/VS Climbers : D Wright, F Kenden Start location: On the wall immediately east of the grey slab of On the Catwalk. Approach by abseil to a large non-tidal ledge close to the right arete. Pitch descriptions: 1. 80ft 4a From a groove directly above the ledge, continue easily before keeping somewhat left of the right arete on deteriorating rock, bottling out right to finish. Additional info: None

Submitted by : Dave Wright Area : Pembroke (Range West) Crag : Perimeter Bays Date of ascent : 5/10/97 Route Name : Life’s Rich Pageant - In the Interim Guide Page 116 (see download) Length/grade/stars : 130ft, XS/E2 Climbers : D Wright, F Kenden Start location: On the east-facing wall beneath the boundary fence, just inside Range West. Abseil to a comfortable non-tidal ledge, 20 feet from the left-bounding arete, leaving a rope available for a top anchor. Pitch descriptions: 1. 130ft 5a Towards the right end of the ledge, take the apparently steep corner to pass the small roof on its right and continue up a loose groove in the same direction. After the crux section at about 80 feet, trend left until a solid slab is finally reached and climbed left-wards, before exiting up the obvious corner above. Additional info: None

Submitted by : Adam Wainwright Area : Pembroke Crag :  Hollow Caves Bay Date of ascent : 29/07/07 Route Name : Great Central Hole, Right Hand Length/grade/stars : E4 50m Climbers :  A. Wainwright, D. Pickford Start location: Climbs a leftward trending line of grooves following the apex of the groove of the arch into the right hand (looking in from the sea) hole, adjacent to the big hole of Hollow Caves Bay (see diagram). Start below the low point of the main arch at its eastern end and opposite the pillar containing Sam Simeone (Charlie Woodburns 8a). Pitch descriptions: 1. 5b, 25m. Follow an easy line up and left to gain slabs and shallow grooves following the left corner side of the main arch which leads into a deep hole / cave where a belay can be constructed out of poor rock in the darkness. 2. 5c, 15m. From the cave make a difficult traverse left on and then just below the crozzly rock in the roof of the arch itself. This leads diagonally left to daylight and an easy groove in the exit bay of the left hand hole of central hole. Follow the gully to a huge chock stone belay. 3. 10m. Scramble out to the top. Additional info:

Pembroke Deep Water Soloing (DWS) The notes below refer to the Rockfax Deep Water Guide by Mike Robertson - click for details New routes submitted by: Adam Wainwright 1. Lydstep – Skomar Arch West Water Gel 6b+, S1 Project marked as route 2 on P172 of Mike Robertsons guide. FA. A. Wainwright 30/07/07 2. Lydstep – Cool Man Chu Wall Eustasy 7a, S2 Project marked as route 1 on P174 of DWS guide. A very good route. Traverse in from the left along highish water mark. Beware of a rock behind you on this traverse. Climb into the chimney (rest) before swinging round onto jugs on the hanging slab and following your nose rightwards and up to easier ground. FA. A. Wainwright 30/07/07

Submitted by : Ben Anderson Area : Pembroke South Crag : Bosherston Head, East Face Date of ascent : 26/08/07 Route Name : Oggly Boggly Length/grade/stars : 40ft, HVS 5b, 0 Climbers : Ben Anderson, Andy Parker Start location: Useful escape when you've just been educated on Star Wars. The route climbs juggy cracks east of the cave on the Southern end of the east face; use an East face/Star Wars abseil at low-mid tide and traverse South as far as you can. Much better and more solid than it looks (which isn't saying much!) Pitch descriptions: 1. 40ft 5b. Climb the parallel cracks, exiting right to avoid deteriorating rock. Additional info: Clean onsight.

Submitted by : Sarah Clough Area : Pembroke North, Porth-y-Fynnon Crag : The DIY Pinnacles Introduction: The DIY Pinnacles can be seen off the tip of grey slab - there are two triangular sea stacks accessible at low tide, the second of which is spit into two slabs separated by a gully. These two stacks offer 5 routes, all short but pleasant and on solid rock, and worth checking out if you fancy a small adventure.  See Front and side views below. DIY Pinnacles - Front View DIY Pinnacles - Side View Approach: To access the routes, either abseil down grey slab and walk across tidal ledges to the the stacks, or scramble round from purple slab. The ledges at the base of the stacks are accessible for 3 hours either side of low tide, the scramble round from purple slab is accessible for about 1/2 hour either side of low tide. To escape, it is best to scramble back round to purple slab (so save the lowest point of the tide for this part) and climb out. It is also possible to climb out grey slab if you are competent at that grade giving yourself longer on the routes, or prusik up your ab rope if you get stuck. Routes: The front purple coloured slab on the second stack yields: "Chisel", a pleasant Mod (10m *) - traverse left to the base of the straight diagonal crack and climb it directly, then scramble off the back. The back slab yields three routes: "Screwdriver" VD (10m) up the left arete finishing at the top of the left hand crack "Hammer" VD (5m) up the short left hand crack "Drill" Diff (8m) up the right hand crack. For all these of these, descend down the ridge on top of the left arete. The sea stack closest to the grey slab can be climbed direct up the broken cracks of "Jigsaw" at Mod (8m), descend off either side although the right (facing land) is easiest. DIY Pinnacles - Front View Topo DIY Pinnacles - Side View Topo Climbers: "Chisel" M Sarah Clough (solo) (11th Aug 2007) "Screwdriver" VD Daniel Money (solo) (11th Aug 2007) "Hammer" VD Sarah Clough, Daniel Money (11th Aug 2007) "Drill" D Daniel Money, Sarah Clough (11th Aug 2007) "Jigsaw" M Sarah Clough (solo) (11th Aug 2007) Note - we have graded them in accordance with what we are used to, rather than in accordance with the other routes in the area, which all seem a little soft touch. For example, Hammer VD and Drill D are harder than Gemini VD at Initiation Slabs.

Submitted by : Nick Taylor Area : South Pembroke Crag : Stennis Head Date of ascent : 16/09/05 Route Name : The Stennis Inquisition Length/grade/stars : E2 5c * Climbers : Nick Taylor, Ian Milward Start location: To the right of Loco Dementia and just left of the sea-trench at the start of Stennis Pillar is a right facing corner. Pitch description: 20m. Climb this past two bulges to exit onto a slopey ledge on left arete and semi-rest. Tricky moves past a final bulge lead to a good resting ledge. Continue direct up the wall above to junction with Loco Dementia at easy cracks (shared finish with that route and Stennis Pillar). Excellent technical climbing with mainly good gear. Additional info: On-sight

Submitted by : Nick Taylor Area : North Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn Crag Date of ascent : Various see below Start location: One mile north-east of Llangranog village (13 miles East of Cardigan) is a small peninsula facing the island of Ynys Lochtyn. Approach from Llangranog either along the coast path or a higher level path (slightly quicker), approx 15-20 mins. The crag is on the left hand headland (facing out to sea). Abseil descent to spacious ledges between the 2 buttresses, or onto a rock below the main face (exposed at mid-tide). Routes described Left to right, beginning on the main face: Countdown to Bilko   VS 4b 16m. Climb the prominent shallow corner high on the left hand side of the face. (F.A. Nick Taylor 6.12.98 on-sight solo) Keith Murray   HS 4b * 18m. Follow a quarz vein diagonally left to the left side of an overlap. Pull through this in a fine position. (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 8.8.98) E Double   V Diff 18m. From the alcove just above the belay rock climb the vague blunt rib direct, stepping left to pull through the overhang. Superb juggy holds.  (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 8.8.98) Redman   V Diff 18m. Follow a crack diagonally rightwards for 3 metres, then climbthe smoother slabby rock above using small positive holds. A pleasant climb.  (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 8.8.98)

Submitted by : Nick Taylor Area : North Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn Crag Date of ascent : Various see below Start location: One mile north-east of Llangranog village (13 miles East of Cardigan) is a small peninsula facing the island of Ynys Lochtyn. Approach from Llangranog either along the coast path or a higher level path (slightly quicker), approx 15-20 mins. The crag is on the left hand headland (facing out to sea). Access for the these routes is by abseil to ledges between the two buttresses, or an easy traverse above sea level. Routes: Slug Matador   V Diff 20m. Start below the right arête of Main Buttress at sea level. Follow the arête rightwards to a sloping ramp. Step back left across the arête and follow the right hand side of the main slab to the top. (F.A. Nick Taylor 8.8.98 on-sight solo) Halo of Flies   HVS 5a * 18m. A leaning hanging corner 3 metres right is formed between steeply inclined layers of strata. Climb this to a large ledge passing a thread. Step left and pull through a notch in the overhang to easier ground. (F.A. Nick Taylor  8.8.98) Sisnupangma   E2 5b ** 16m. Battle up the steep and strenuous roof crack which splits the full height of the overhang to the right, gained directly from below (or by stepping right from the ledge on "Halo of Flies"). Finish up the rib above. High in the grade,  perhaps E3.  (F.A. Nick Taylor 6.12.98) Routes - To the right is a deep rock pool and wide ledges separating the two buttresses: Jim Bowen's Love-child    Severe 14m. Climb a rib on the back wall, move rightwards to a crack leading to a ledge. Follow the cleft back leftwards to the top.  (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 6.12.98) Stanley Unwin   V Diff 14m. Pleasant climbey slabbo to the left handy sidum Narayan Buttress. (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 5.12.98) Routes - The right hand buttress is NARAYAN BUTTRESS. Belays may require some ingenuity. Hobo Chang Ba   HVS 4c 12m. Start on the left side of the steep wall, juggy, to a difficult move through a small overhang. Continue direct pulling over the next overhang to gain a groove/scoop high on the left side of the nose. Easily up this. (F.A. Nick Taylor 8.8.98) Resham Firiri   HVS 4c * 16m. Good positions, low in the grade. Follow Hobo Chang Ba to the first overlap, move rightwards below this then up to below the main overhang. Climb diagonally rightwards beneath this, finishing up a short corner.  (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 8.8.98) Narayan Ghale   E1 5a * 15m. Start in the centre of the face below the nose of the prominent overhang. Steep but easy climbing directly up to this. Pull through leftwards to a small foothold on the lip, then a precarious move back right to a sloping footledge. Continue direct up the blunt arete. (F.A. Nick Taylor 8.8.98) Paan Ko Paat   E1 5b  15m. Just right, pull over a bulge then up and right to gain the corner which bounds the right hand side of the face. Follow this to an exit leftwards and finish shared with Resham Firiri. (F.A. Nick Taylor 5.12.98)

Submitted by : Nick Taylor Area : North Pembroke Crag : Penclegyr, Porthgain area Date of ascent : Various see below Start location: To the right of "Middle of the Road" looking out is n easy angled ramp. Several easy routes start from ledges at the base of this. Abseil or down-solo. These routes were reported before (with a sketch topo) but not included in the CC guide, I assumed this was because the descriptions had either been lost or they were dismissed as unworthy for inclusion. They were more recently mentioned in an article in Climber magazine by Jon Horscroft, believing they had done first ascents (they were a little more generous with grades). Routes - described left to right: Alcoholic   V Diff Direct from ledges aiming for  a corner capped by an overhang, passed on the right side. (F.A. Nick Taylor  9.8.98 on-sight solo)  A Scanner Darkly   Severe Difficult moves on small holds follow a thin crack up and right into an easier groove-line, left of the descent ramp. (F.A. Nick Taylor 9.8.98 on-sight solo)   Borderline   Mod/Diff  The ramp/groove down which you abseil. (F.A. Nick Taylor 9.8.98 solo) Dolphins  V Diff Climb the left hand side of the slab, which is to the right of the descent ramp. (F.A. Nick Taylor 9.8.98 on-sight solo)

Submitted by : Nigel Barry Guide Coordinator Pembroke Area : Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn / Penclegyr Date of ascent : 9/8/98 Route Name : Virusss Length/grade/stars : 30m Severe Climbers : Nick Taylor Start location: Start at small ledges just above the sea. Pitch descriptions: Follow good holds and ledges rightwards above the roof, then directly above, easy angled rock.

Submitted by : Nigel Barry Guide Coordinator Pembroke Area : Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn / Penclegyr Date of ascent : 9/8/98 Route Name : Dolphinss Length/grade/stars : 30m Very Difficult Climbers : Nick Taylor Start location: Start at small ledges just above the sea. Pitch descriptions: Climb direct from the same starting point up the left-hand side of the slab.

Submitted by : Nigel Barry Guide Coordinator Pembroke Area : Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn / Penclegyr Date of ascent : 9/8/98 Route Name : Borderline Time-Wasster Length/grade/stars : 30m Difficult Climbers : Nick Taylor Start location: The ramp-groove which you abseiled down. Pitch descriptions: Escape route probably only necessary if you're injured or something.

Submitted by : Nigel Barry Guide Coordinator Pembroke Area : Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn / Penclegyr Date of ascent : 9/8/98 Route Name : A Scanner Darkly Length/grade/stars : 30m Severe Climbers : Nick Taylor Start location: Start at small ledges just above the sea. Pitch descriptions: Initially hard moves on small holds, (thin crackline, small footholds) lead up and right, from the ledge to an easy groove-line.

Submitted by : Nigel Barry Guide Coordinator Pembroke Area : Pembroke Crag : Lochtyn / Penclegyr Date of ascent : 9/8/98 Route Name : No Sympathy for an Alcoholic Length/grade/stars : 30m Severe Climbers : Nick Taylor Start location: Start at small ledges just above the sea. Pitch descriptions: Direct up good steep lower section, to a corner above, rightwards at the top to escape.

Submitted by : James Davis Area : Pembroke Crag : St. David's Head (South Butress) Date of ascent : 26/12/2007 Route Name : Oyon's Boxing Gully Length/grade/stars : 15m Mod Climbers : J. Davis, J. Bowyer Start location: Start at the base of the gully to the right of Rakish Crack. Pitch descriptions: Follow the unexceptional scramble up the gully.

Submitted by : John H Bull Area : Pembroke North Crag : Pencarnan Slabs/first zawn Date of ascent : 21 May 2008 Route Name : Locum Notion Length/grade/stars : 90 feet, HVS 5a* Climbers : John H Bull Start location: Approach from the seaward end of the slab, and descend to belay in a groove to the left of the main slab, which is split by a halfway ledge. Pitch descriptions: Climb the diagonal quartz crack to a half-way ledge (a second quartz crack to the right can also be climbed at about the same standard).  Climb the centre of the smooth brown slab past a fine horizontal crack (microwires) to good holds.  Grass clump belays. Additional info: Rope lead solo, on-sight

Submitted by : John H Bull Area : Pembroke North Crag : Pencarnan Slabs/first zawn Date of ascent : 21 May 2008 Route Name : Freelance Armstrong Length/grade/stars : 100 feet, HVS 5a* Climbers : John H Bull Start location: Approach from the seaward end of the slab, and descend to belay in a groove to the left of the main slab, which is split by a halfway ledge. Pitch descriptions: Traverse just above sea level to a vague rib. Climb the rib to a V-shaped ledge, then more easily to the halfway ledge and protection.  Climb the right-hand side of the smooth brown slab directly, past a small overlap.  Grass clump belays. Additional info: Rope lead solo, onsight